Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park: A Land of Deep Shadows and Steep Cliffs
Tucked into western Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is a landscape shaped by time, water, and rock. Towering cliffs drop nearly 2,700 feet to the Gunnison River below, creating one of the deepest and narrowest canyons in North America. Unlike the sprawling openness of the Grand Canyon, Black Canyon is a place of sharp contrasts—steep, shadowed walls and a river that still carves its way through ancient rock.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park offers jaw-dropping views of sheer, dark cliffs carved by the Gunnison River, making it one of the most dramatic and underrated natural wonders in the U.S.
This isn’t a place that reveals itself all at once. Stand on the rim, and you’ll see the jagged edges and dark depths that give the canyon its name. Hike down into the canyon, and the walls close in, towering overhead as you trace the river’s path. Whether you’re looking for scenic overlooks, tough hikes, or quiet moments of solitude, this park offers a different kind of grandeur—one that’s raw, vertical, and undeniably powerful.
The story of Black Canyon begins nearly two billion years ago with heat, pressure, and rock. During this time, ancient sedimentary deposits were transformed into the hard metamorphic rock—gneiss and schist—that makes up the canyon walls today.
About 60 million years ago, the land began to rise in what geologists call the Gunnison Uplift. Later, volcanic eruptions buried the area under layers of rock, but the real sculptor of the canyon was the Gunnison River. Over the past two million years, the river cut through the rock with a persistence that continues today. The result is a canyon so steep that some sections see only a few minutes of sunlight each day.
Though the canyon itself has existed for eons, its human history is relatively brief. The rugged and treacherous landscape kept most early inhabitants and explorers at a distance, with only a few daring to navigate its depths.
Long before European explorers arrived, the Ute people lived in the region surrounding the canyon. As nomadic hunter-gatherers, they followed seasonal food sources, moving between the mountains and valleys. While they were familiar with the canyon, they primarily stayed along its rim rather than venturing into the depths. The sheer walls and rugged terrain made access to the river difficult, and the canyon was considered more of a barrier than a resource.
The Ute people viewed Black Canyon with a mixture of reverence and caution. Oral traditions suggest that they avoided the depths, considering the canyon an inhospitable place best left undisturbed. This belief was reinforced by the fact that the canyon offers little in the way of easy travel or abundant resources compared to the surrounding plateaus and river valleys.
The first documented exploration of the canyon by Europeans occurred in 1853 when U.S. Army Captain John Williams Gunnison led an expedition to survey a possible railroad route through Colorado. The goal was to find a feasible passage for a transcontinental railroad, but Gunnison quickly realized that the canyon was impassable. In his journal, he described the terrain as a “formidable obstacle,” noting the sheer cliffs and deep shadows that made it difficult to navigate.
Gunnison and his team only explored a small portion of the canyon before moving on. Later that year, Gunnison was killed in a conflict with the Ute people while surveying in Utah. Despite his short time in the area, his name remained attached to the river and, eventually, the canyon itself.
Following Gunnison’s expedition, little effort was made to further explore the canyon for several decades. The extreme terrain continued to discourage settlement and transportation development.
As early as the 1930s, conservationists recognized the need to protect the Black Canyon’s unique landscape. In 1933, President Herbert Hoover designated the area as Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument, preserving over 11,000 acres.
In the following decades, the park’s boundaries expanded, and infrastructure was improved to accommodate visitors. Scenic roads and overlooks were constructed, making it easier for travelers to experience the canyon’s dramatic views without needing to hike into its depths.
In 1999, after years of advocacy, the site was upgraded to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, receiving a higher level of protection and recognition. Today, the park encompasses over 30,000 acres, preserving not only the canyon itself but also the surrounding ecosystems.
Despite its national park status, Black Canyon of the Gunnison remains one of the least-visited parks in the United States. This is largely due to its remote location and rugged nature. Unlike many national parks, which feature easy access to lakes, rivers, or valleys, Black Canyon is defined by its sheer drops and difficult terrain. There are no roads leading to the bottom of the canyon, and the few descent routes that exist require significant effort.
This sense of isolation is part of what makes Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park unique. While other national parks have been reshaped by tourism, Black Canyon remains much as it has for thousands of years—a place of deep shadows, towering rock faces, and a river that still carves its way through the stone.
The extreme terrain of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park doesn’t make life easy, but plenty of species have adapted to the conditions.
Along the rim, pinyon pines and junipers dominate, with sagebrush filling the open spaces. In spring and summer, wildflowers like Indian paintbrush and Rocky Mountain columbine add color to the otherwise stark landscape. As you descend into the canyon, the vegetation shifts—ferns and mosses cling to damp rock faces near the river, while willows and cottonwoods thrive along the water’s edge.
Wildlife here is just as varied. Mule deer graze along the rim, often spotted near the visitor center at dawn and dusk. Black bears occasionally wander through the park, though sightings are rare. More often, visitors will see smaller mammals like rock squirrels and chipmunks darting between boulders.
The canyon’s steep walls provide ideal nesting sites for peregrine falcons, one of the fastest birds in the world. Golden eagles, red-tailed hawks, and turkey vultures also ride the thermals above the canyon, scanning for prey below.
In 2015, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park was designated an International Dark Sky Park, recognizing its exceptional night skies. Visitors can experience this firsthand at ranger-led astronomy programs held during summer. Without a telescope, you can still see thousands of stars, the Andromeda Galaxy, and meteor showers when conditions are right.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park has two main entrances. The South Rim, near Montrose, is the more developed side with a visitor center, scenic overlooks, and more maintained trails. The North Rim, accessed via Crawford, offers fewer amenities but a quieter experience. The two rims are not directly connected by road—you’ll need to drive around the park to visit both.
The park has campgrounds on both rims. The South Rim Campground is open year-round, with some electric hookups available. The North Rim Campground is more remote, offering a quieter experience with fewer facilities.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison isn’t the kind of place you visit for a casual sightseeing trip. Its beauty isn’t in wide-open landscapes or gentle trails—it’s in the sheer drop-offs, the shadowed walls that rarely see sunlight, and the relentless force of a river carving its way through some of the oldest rock on the continent.
For those who take the time to explore, whether from the rim or down in the depths, this park offers an experience that feels remote, raw, and entirely its own.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park Trails
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park offers hiking experiences that range from easy rim trails to grueling descents into the canyon itself. The park isn’t known for leisurely strolls—most hikes involve steep drop-offs, loose rock, or challenging climbs. But for those willing to take on the rugged terrain, the rewards are unmatched.
Warner Point Nature Trail, a 1.5 mile round-trip hike starts near the South Rim Visitor Center and leads to Warner Point, one of the best places to take in the canyon’s scale. The trail winds through pinyon-juniper woodlands, offering views of the San Juan Mountains in the distance. Along the way, interpretive signs explain the area’s geology and ecology, making this a great introduction to the park.
Also starting near the South Rim Visitor Center, Oak Flat Loop Trail, a 1.4 mile loop, descends slightly into the canyon, offering a glimpse of what lies below without requiring a full-day commitment. The trail features narrow switchbacks and rocky terrain but rewards hikers with close-up views of the sheer canyon walls. It’s one of the few maintained trails that provide a more immersive experience beyond the rim.
For those who want to experience the canyon floor, the Gunnison Route is a strenuous, unmarked path leading from the rim to the river. This route is not an official trail but rather a steep, rocky descent requiring a wilderness use permit. The hike is only about one mile each way, but with 1,800 feet of elevation loss, it demands strength, patience, and route-finding skills. Reaching the bottom feels like stepping into another world, where the roar of the river replaces the silence of the rim.
A relatively easy 1 mile hike along the South Rim, Rim Rock Nature Trail offers sweeping views without the physical demands of steeper routes. Ideal for families or those looking to take in the scenery at a slower pace, the trail is lined with sagebrush and pinyon pines, offering chances to spot birds of prey soaring over the canyon.
What’s Nearby Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
Near Black Canyon, Colorado National Monument offers towering red rock formations, deep canyons, and scenic drives with sweeping desert views. Not far away, the Maroon Bells near Aspen are among the most photographed mountains in the U.S., reflecting beautifully in Maroon Lake, especially in the fall when aspens turn gold.
Southwest of the canyon, Canyons of the Ancients National Monument protects thousands of Ancestral Puebloan sites, offering a glimpse into ancient civilizations. Nearby, Mesa Verde National Park features remarkably well-preserved cliff dwellings carved into the rock. To the east, Great Sand Dunes National Park is home to North America’s tallest dunes, set dramatically against the backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park Parking Information
Parking at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is available at both the South Rim and North Rim. The South Rim Visitor Center has a designated parking lot with spots for cars, RVs, and trailers, though larger vehicles may find maneuvering difficult. Several overlooks along the South Rim Drive have small pull-off areas, but these can fill up quickly. The North Rim has fewer parking areas, with the North Rim Ranger Station offering a small lot near trailheads. There is no road connecting the two rims within the park, so visitors need to drive around the canyon, a trip of about 90 minutes. In winter, snow can impact parking access, and certain areas may be closed. For those planning to hike into the canyon, overnight parking is permitted with a wilderness permit, but vehicles must be left in designated areas.
Further Reading
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park Address & Directions
